Beyond the Eiffel Tower: A First Timer’s Guide to Paris
“When good Americans die they go to Paris.”— Oscar Wilde, A Woman of No Importance
Notre Dame de Paris above the Seine, seen from Île Saint Louis
It is a truth universally known that Paris is the most beautiful city in the world… Yes, I’ve said it and I’ll stand by it! Anyone familiar with Paris knows that, unlike some other capitals and tourist towns, Paris is not a sum of its monuments and museums; rather, the city itself is an iconic masterpiece. When visiting Paris, of course, everyone should make their way to the Eiffel Tower (or find the best views of it), but don’t miss your chance at getting well acquainted with the rest of the city’s epochal monuments and enchanting neighborhoods.
How long should I plan to stay in Paris?
Anything less than a lifetime in Paris wouldn’t be enough time…but on your first visit, I would recommend staying in the city for at least three to four nights. Paris is well-connected thanks to the metro (also iconic), and neighborhoods are very walkable. However, the city is still big, and after you’ve experienced the highlights, you’ll want some time to explore more specific interests of yours and to take time to relax and experience life in the city of lights.
photo courtesy of New York Public Library on Unsplash
Getting to & around Paris
Notre Dame de Paris
By Train: Paris has six major train stations where you can get a direct connection from cities like London, Milan, Amsterdam, Brussels, Zurich, and more! Paris is ideal for rail travelers (like myself), and once you are in the city, you can easily utilize the metro system. If it is possible to plan your trip to start on a Monday, then you can save money by purchasing a Weekly Navigo Travel Pass. When the pass is purchased to include all 5 zones, it includes all of the airports, Versailles, and other day trip destinations. The Monday through Sunday pass is €31.60, compared to the weekly tourist pass (the Paris Visite travel pass), which costs €76.25 for 5 days.
Flights:
Charles de Gaulle - connect directly to Paris with a 45-minute metro. If you plan to take a taxi, please note that there is a fixed fee of €56 to the Right Bank and €65 to the Left Bank.
Orly - The bus from Orly to Paris’ city center is a little more than an hour and costs €2.
Where to Stay: Neighborhoods to Consider
Where should I stay in Paris?
Paris is conveniently separated into neighborhoods and districts called arrondissements, of which there are 20. In order to determine which neighborhood is best for you, start by narrowing down the top interests for your trip. Below are my favorite Paris neighborhoods; I’ll let you read through and decide which is the best fit for you.
Latin Quarter: If you are interested in exploring the Paris of Shakespeare & Co. authors, ancient Romans, and Sorbonne intellectuals, then look for a hotel or apartment in the Latin Quarter, also known as the fifth arrondissement. In this neighborhood, you can easily access Roman ruins and medieval history at the Cluny Museum, wander through plenty of charming streets, appreciate the tombs of the Pantheon, explore the off-the-beaten-path Jardin des Plantes, and more! Also, the Latin Quarter has plenty of well-connected metro stops and is within walking distance to iconic monuments like the Luxembourg Gardens and Notre Dame de Paris.
Saint-Germain-des-Pres: The Latin Quarter’s next door neighbor, also recognized as the 6th arrondissement, is home to beautiful churches (one with a famous flea market) and lovely outdoor spaces, from bridges (Pont des Arts), intimate gardens (Fürstenberg square), and the vast and lovely Luxembourg Gardens. The vibe in this neighborhood is similar to the Latin Quarter, but here you can expect to find grander avenues and more spacious squares.
The Marais: The third arrondissement was once a swamp, hence the name Le Marais (literally translating to “the swamp”). Now this part of town is the place to go for thrifting, iconic museums, markets, beautifully manicured gardens and mansions. Here, you can visit Victor Hugo’s impressive home, the famous Hotel de Ville, and more.
Versailles: Although not technically in Paris, Versailles is one of the city’s most charming suburbs, and it is extremely well connected as a popular day trip from Paris. The city is clean, the buildings are charming, and the people are lovely! You can stay near the palace and the Chantier train station, or you can stay in the neighborhood near Versailles Rive Droite train station if you are looking for an even quieter neighborhood. Each of the stations is 45 minutes to one hour from Paris, depending on where in the city you want to go. Versailles has grocery stores, loads of green spaces, and great restaurants. This would be the perfect home base for a family or a couple!
Bastille & La Nation: The 11th arrondissement is a lovely neighborhood in the city center if you are looking to stay on a budget while remaining close to the action. Although the neighborhood is more residential, you have hidden gems at your doorstep like the Père-Lachaise cemetery, Le marché couvert Beauvau, and Parc de Bercy.
For accommodations, consider checking out Booking.com and Vrbo, or Plum Guide for a range of options, from boutique hotels to charming rentals in whichever neighborhood speaks to you most!
Exploring Paris: Neighborhood to Neighborhood
Notre Dame de Paris ambulatory
Louvre, Eiffel, and Arc de Triomphe
The Louvre has been the center of Paris since the Middle Ages. The ancient fortress, which you can still walk through today underneath the palace, was built to protect the newly expanded city borders to the east of the Seine in the 11th century. These days you can visit a palace full of art and enjoy an underground shopping mall and the iconic glass pyramid. The Louvre certainly needs no introduction, but don’t miss out while there by only visiting the Mona Lisa. The museum is huge, and you could easily waste time wandering. Check out the Louvre’s online map and determine what you’d most like to see before arriving at the museum, or you could book a guided tour - either of these will save you precious time. While checking out the collections through the website, make sure you reserve tickets in advance so you can avoid standing in line for hours upon hours. Keep in mind that the Louvre also has free lockers once you go through security, making it very convenient to visit any time of day!
From the Louvre, you can take a 25-minute metro to the Eiffel Tower, if you’d like to go up to one of the observation decks. If you’re looking for a great view of the Eiffel Tower, then there are some of the best views nearby. Check out the Rue de l’Université for a quieter, residential street view. The Arc de Triomphe is a classic viewpoint for the Eiffel Tower and the rest of Paris. It’s also only a 15-minute metro ride from The Louvre, or a 50-minute walk through the Tuileries and the Champs-Élysées. On your way to or from the Arc de Triomphe, you can step off of the Champs-Élysées to visit the Petit Palais, a free art museum! In the opposite direction, just a 15-minute walk from the Louvre, you can also visit the Centre Pompidou. If you’re not museumed out, take your time admiring the Centre’s contemporary art on your way up to catch a glimpse of the Eiffel from the roof; the entrance fee for the entire museum is 18 euros, and the museum is open from 11 am to 9 pm, Wednesday to Monday.
Notre Dame de Paris, Pantheon, and Luxembourg Gardens
Reading in Luxembourg Gardens
The newly renovated Notre Dame de Paris is a marvel that must be visited on a trip to Paris. Although she has graced the Ile-de-la-Cité for nearly one thousand years, it feels as though she is somehow more impressive and monumental today than ever before. The restoration team has done a beautiful job of not only cleaning and rebuilding the church, but they have also breathed a unique life into it with contemporary art, restored frescoes, and more. Visit yourself to experience all of the intricate details, from the 12th century to the 21st century. Plan to visit as early as possible to avoid the crowds. You can enter as early as 7:50 am Monday through Friday and 8:15 am Saturday and Sunday.
On the left bank, you can further explore the Latin Quarter. My favorite stop after Notre Dame is always Shakespeare & Co. While not nearly as monumental or long standing as Notre Dame, Shakespeare & Co. is celebrated as a living and breathing piece of Parisian history all the same. A stop in or stroll through the rose garden across the street is a must after book shopping. Here you can take in an unobstructed view of Notre Dame in a surprisingly peaceful green space. Make the time for a quick stop at the other churches on this side of town, such as Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre, Church of Saint-Séverin, Church of Saint-Étienne-du-Mont, and Église Saint-Sulpice. For more iconic Paris, head over to the Pantheon, only a 15-minute walk from Notre Dame. Take in the history and architecture of the monument, inside and outside. It is a few-minute walk from here to the Emily in Paris filming locations of Emily’s apartment and Chef Gabriel’s restaurant, if you are interested! If you do choose to visit, please be respectful and mindful that the apartment building is a private residence. The Pantheon is only a 10-minute walk from the luscious Luxembourg Gardens. Here you can enjoy the peaceful Medici Fountain, one of the many Statues of Liberty in Paris, a large fountain in the middle of the park, and more. I enjoy coming here to read and relax while eating a snack, and it is my favorite park in Paris!
Le Marais
Le Marais is a trendy neighborhood with boutiques and restaurants for every type of person! You can visit iconic places like Victor Hugo’s home, Place de la Bastille, and the intimidatingly beautiful city hall, Hotel de Ville. There are also plenty of lesser-visited sights to discover! To start off, you can visit the Tour Saint Jacques, located just across from Ile de la Cité in the square named after the tower. From May 15th to November 15th, you can take a tour up the tower and see the most beautiful view of Notre Dame! There are a few hundred steps, but the inside of the tower is not as claustrophobia-inducing as some other bell-towers. There are multiple museums in Le Marais, but two of the best are the Musée Carnavalet, which is a museum dedicated to the city of Paris, and the National Picasso Museum. Musée Carnavalet is completely free to visit and a pleasure to walk through! The National Picasso Museum has works by Pablo Picasso as well as art from his personal collection on display in a stunning 17th-century building. If you are to do as the Romans do in Rome then do as the Parisians do in Paris; while in the Marais, grab a snack and a drink and enjoy the ambience around the Canal Saint Martin.
Courtesy of Barbare Kacharava on Unsplash
Culinary Delights: What to Eat
Steak frites - steak with a side of fries, often served with an herb sauce
Escargot - land snails cooked and served with herbal butter sauce
French onion soup - classic French comfort food
Pain au Chocolat - a flaky and buttery croissant with added sweetness and texture of chocolate
Eclair - cream-filled pastry covered with thin layer of icing
Macaron - a sandwich-like cookie made in many different flavors and flavor combinations, often made gluten-free with almond flour
Creme Brûlée - rich dessert with a caramelized sugar top layer and a custard base
If it isn’t already apparent, I love the city of Paris. I design my Paris trips, concerned I will suffer from “Paris Syndrome,” as my excitement grows for the trip I’ve pictured in my mind, and yet, I never get Paris Syndrome. The city charms me in unexpected ways, and my expectations are exceeded each time I visit. Whatever the spell is that Paris has on me, I hope I am never cured. I will happily keep coming back for more, time and time again. If you’re planning your first trip to Paris, then take it slow; don’t try to fit in too much, and remember to fully pause here and there to take it all in. Utilize my Paris map below, which is color-coded with specific interests for sights and museums, ranging from Roman to French Revolution to the Roaring Twenties. Happy travels and bon voyage!
Sibley is a firm believer that anyone can travel well, regardless of budget. She considers herself an off-the-beaten-path type of traveler, avoiding crowded areas and seasons, searching for hidden gems wherever she finds herself in the world.
